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Is collagen good for the hair?

A popular ingredient in anti-ageing cosmetics, collagen is featuring more and more in haircare products – why is this?

Woman taking collagen for her hair

Reminder: what is collagen?

Collagen is the the most abundant protein in the body, representing more than 25% of the total protein mass of mammals. A major structural fibre of the extracellular matrix which ‘cements’ cells together, it provides support and cohesion to tissues. Unlike elastin, it is rigid and unstretchable, its triple-helix structure giving it a mechanical tensile strength (1).

With 28 different types, reflecting variations in amino acid sequences, collagen is found in almost all organic structures. It is particularly concentrated in the skin, bones, corneas, tendons, joint cartilage and blood vessel walls (2).

What are the benefits of collagen for the hair?

Collagen and hair loss

Each hair originates in a hair follicle (or hair bulb) contained in the dermis. Provided it receives an adequate blood supply, it ensures growth of the hair shaft and anchors it into the scalp.

The dermis, the middle layer of the skin, is itself comprised of 80% collagen. What’s more, collagen directly constitutes the separate layers of the hair bulb, including the connective tissue sheath (types I and III collagen), the dermal papilla (extracellular matrix aggregate) and basal membrane (type IV collagen) (3).

But as we get older, our collagen production declines (4). Its depletion at the hair root promotes premature contraction of the follicles, which weakens the hair shaft and precipitates hair loss. The structural role of collagen thus has an indirect impact on the course of the hair cycle.

According to some studies, collagen may also have a biochemical function, modulating the expression of certain hair growth factors (IGF-1, VEGF, krt27, Gprc5d and Ki67) (5). Such findings thus suggest a close link between collagen and hair growth.

Collagen and grey hair

Biologically, greying hair is evidence that melanin production has ceased, melanin being the pigment responsible for hair colouration by melanocytes. The putative causes of this include age, heredity, and diet, as well as pollution- or chemical-induced oxidative stress.

Unfortunately, collagen molecules cannot return ‘salt and pepper’ hair to its original colour, but they are still attracting scientific attention as a preventative measure in the field of cell protection (6).

Collagen hair-straightening: the new trend in anti-frizz aids

Offered by expert hairdressing salons, collagen straightening is attracting fans of the professional blow-dry. Why? Because unlike some straighteners which significantly damage the hair, this innovative treatment is based on the reconstructive effects of collagen which bonds to the core of the hair fibre. The result is a tamed, shiny, regenerated mane that lasts for several months. The only downside is the cost, which rises in proportion to the length of your hair ...

Collagen hair mask: the restorative home remedy

If you have dull, lifeless hair, you could also try a home collagen mask to strengthen or ‘coat’ your hair, give it more volume and breathe new life into it. Apply to wet hair after shampooing, and massage thoroughly into the scalp before drying (keeping the hairdryer at a distance).

What is the best type of collagen for the hair?

The advantages of marine collagen

While more and more collagen-based topical treatments are appearing on the market (serums, shampoos…), acting from within by taking an oral collagen supplement would seem equally sensible.

Of all the forms available, marine collagen stands out in the scientific community for its lower toxicity, greater absorbability due to its low molecular weight, its human collagen-like structure and smaller ecological footprint (7).

A study on rats examined the effects on hair growth of supplementation with fish collagen peptides (or hydrolysed collagen). It revealed greater differentiation of dermal papillae and obvious changes in signalling pathways between dermal and epithelial follicular cells (8).

It’s best to choose a marine collagen supplement that offers optimal assimilation (such as Marine Collagen, a patented, hydrolysed marine collagen obtained using a cutting-edge enzymatic process).

Some highly bioavailable marine collagen supplements are even designed in the form of drinkable sticks enriched with hydrolyzed cartilage, hyaluronic acid, and vitamins (such as Premium Collagen Shots).

Other collagen-rich beauty supplements

Want to kill two birds with one stone when it comes to your natural beauty assets? Collagen also features in all-in-one formulations (such as Daily Beauty, in which collagen peptides are combined with keratin, a major component of the hair shaft, vitamin B8 or biotin, which helps maintain healthy skin and hair, and hyaluronic acid, the most popular anti-wrinkle filler in anti-ageing treatments) (9-11).

It’s worth noting that some synergistic formulations aimed at rejuvenating the skin (such as Natural Skin Formula, which contains biotin, resveratrol and superoxide dismutase) also provide a good dose of collagen (12).

Collagen for the hair: are there any risks?

Collagen supplements are generally very well-tolerated by the body. The only reported side-effects are limited to digestive problems (primarily from poor quality supplements), and allergies to the raw materials used (bovine proteins, fish...).

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References

  1. Wu M, Cronin K, Crane JS. Biochemistry, Collagen Synthesis. [Updated 2022 Sep 12]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK507709/
  2. Ricard-Blum S. The collagen family. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Biol. 2011 Jan 1;3(1):a004978. doi: 10.1101/cshperspect.a004978. PMID: 21421911; PMCID: PMC3003457.
  3. Bernard BA. La vie révélée du follicule de cheveu humain [The life of human hair follicle revealed]. Med Sci (Paris). 2006 Feb;22(2):138-43. French. doi: 10.1051/medsci/2006222138. PMID: 16457752.
  4. Marcos-Garcés V, Molina Aguilar P, Bea Serrano C, García Bustos V, Benavent Seguí J, Ferrández Izquierdo A, Ruiz-Saurí A. Age-related dermal collagen changes during development, maturation and ageing - a morphometric and comparative study. J Anat. 2014 Jul;225(1):98-108. doi: 10.1111/joa.12186. Epub 2014 Apr 23. PMID: 24754576; PMCID: PMC4089350.
  5. Hwang SB, Park HJ, Lee BH. Hair-Growth-Promoting Effects of the Fish Collagen Peptide in Human Dermal Papilla Cells and C57BL/6 Mice Modulating Wnt/β-Catenin and BMP Signaling Pathways. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Oct 7;23(19):11904. doi: 10.3390/ijms231911904. PMID: 36233206; PMCID: PMC9569759.
  6. Chen YP, Liang CH, Wu HT, Pang HY, Chen C, Wang GH, Chan LP. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacities of collagen peptides from milkfish (Chanos chanos) scales. J Food Sci Technol. 2018 Jun;55(6):2310-2317. doi: 10.1007/s13197-018-3148-4. Epub 2018 May 3. PMID: 29892131; PMCID: PMC5976616.
  7. Jafari H, Lista A, Siekapen MM, Ghaffari-Bohlouli P, Nie L, Alimoradi H, Shavandi A. Fish Collagen: Extraction, Characterization, and Applications for Biomaterials Engineering. Polymers (Basel). 2020 Sep 28;12(10):2230. doi: 10.3390/polym12102230. PMID: 32998331; PMCID: PMC7601392.
  8. Chen YP, Liang CH, Wu HT, Pang HY, Chen C, Wang GH, Chan LP. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacities of collagen peptides from milkfish (Chanos chanos) scales. J Food Sci Technol. 2018 Jun;55(6):2310-2317. doi: 10.1007/s13197-018-3148-4. Epub 2018 May 3. PMID: 29892131; PMCID: PMC5976616.
  9. An SY, Kim HS, Kim SY, Van SY, Kim HJ, Lee JH, Han SW, Kwon IK, Lee CK, Do SH, Hwang YS. Keratin-mediated hair growth and its underlying biological mechanism. Commun Biol. 2022 Nov 19;5(1):1270. doi: 10.1038/s42003-022-04232-9. Erratum in: Commun Biol. 2022 Dec 22;5(1):1406. Erratum in: Commun Biol. 2022 Dec 22;5(1):1407. PMID: 36402892; PMCID: PMC9675858.
  10. Bistas KG, Tadi P. Biotin. [Updated 2023 Jul 3]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK554493/
  11. Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging. 2012 Jul 1;4(3):253-8. doi: 10.4161/derm.21923. PMID: 23467280; PMCID: PMC3583886.
  12. Lee MJ, Agrahari G, Kim HY, An EJ, Chun KH, Kang H, Kim YS, Bang CW, Tak LJ, Kim TY. Extracellular Superoxide Dismutase Prevents Skin Aging by Promoting Collagen Production through the Activation of AMPK and Nrf2/HO-1 Cascades. J Invest Dermatol. 2021 Oct;141(10):2344-2353.e7. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2021.02.757. Epub 2021 Apr 6. PMID: 33836179.

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